Let me add my own experience too, wait a long time for the electronics to dry. True. Why this might not work : the "dissolved" materials which have stuck to the PCB and components do not get washed off completely. This should remove anything not removed by the wd40, and will remove all the wd40 too.4: Immerse in a second pure alcohol bath that you try to keep clean -- ie use a different bucket than step 3 -- try to get everything off in step 3. Use the following mold removal procedure to clean the interior of a dishwasher of mold. Some are very hard to get to too. (Try leaving bread dough out without adding yeast and see how long it takes to sta, Finally, where do you live? What would it cost (in terms of dollars or hours, whatever is more valuable to you) to: - subject the individual components to any of the treatments prescribed here, - reassemble everything (except for those extra pieces, intentionally removed for efficiency's sake! They had a little black-and-white TV at the time - 12" or so I would guess. work for a major manufacturer. Put them in a dish washer, without any soup. Is it possible to clean electronic devices that may have mold spores inside of them, seeing as I have no way to clean the inside of these devices (i.e., DVD players, computers)? Assuming you have a big pile of stuff to do this to, and 3 large buckets, and an oven as big as all 3 buckets combined, I've just described a 5 step assembly line process, where every 20 minutes you can move something ahead one step. They can be cleaned with soap and bleach, but may not be playable again, depending on how "soft" the mold made the vinyl. (I live in an area without basements, both because of shrink-swell soil and high water tables.). So you're saying that if I lived in Florida, I *can* use my clothes drier to get the wet off my electronics? Yes, it is. I realize that it may be painfully expensive, but if you suspect any mold on anything, you should either quarantine it until you can thoroughly kill it or just trash it. I got exuberant on the driver's side lock and took 3 or 4 tries with Windex to get the film off the glass. Should do the trick right nice. But the whole "down to the studs" thing is, But the whole "down to the studs" thing is. So the phrase "subject to" is... well, quite subjective. Appropriate technology and all that. If you leave moldy stuff in your house, it will spread through the whole house via A/C. It will also make the basement liveable in short order. (macbook for example, UNDER the logic board) We get people that bring in things like that which got a drink spilled in them and told us they instantly removed the battery. Our baby dropped the other cordless phone in the toilet. The upper temperature depends on the plastic materials used, if it gets too hot they will start to deform. (college was hard on it). Get the 97% not the 85%, yes it costs 2x as much, so that's $1.50 for a pint. Many people who don't live in an area where floods are a real likelihood don't buy the extra flood insurance, which is probably the case here ("Since we are not in a flood plain, our insurance for this is woefully inadequate."). Electronics could be placed on that while the dryer blows the hot air around. Cleaning With Water: It will take time, warmth, and air movement. Rip the plaster down clean the mud out of the studs flooded. Electronic equipment, more than anything else, attracts mold.   ...but I'm no chemist, so they might well be using different names to describe the same materials. It was at the top of the rack and probably was barely under. I figured that this would be about the same as leaving electronics in a parked car in the sun, but with better ventilation. Remember, more heat isn't necessarily better. Simply repeat the dunking in alcohol a couple of times and the blowing out with a fan. "PB Blaster" is a great product in it's own right, though. We dug it up, took it home, hosed it out, threw it in the pool, etc.. Molds used for RITE styles cannot be detached from the hearing aid, and since they contain electronics they must never be washed or immersed in water or other liquids. Optical pots can get their optics clouded or blocked. Area rugs should be HEPA vacuumed and cleaned either via hot water extraction or immersion cleaning. Mix 3 cups of water to a ½ cup of bleach. Why would anyone build a basement in an area subject to such problems? (hope your caps are sealed well...) It's not the heat that dries it out, it's the difference in humidity. Apparently, you found more water after turning the power back on. You will be better off replacing the lot. So when I found that the sandwich grade ziplock bag had not been the water proof cell phone protector that I had expected, the cell phone went into the warm oven, which took less than 30 seconds to set up, and I went on to other activities. The ions from the bleach will be under whatever you spray on after the fact. Once that is done, look at the board and see how clean it came out. for cholestyramine. The easiest way to do this is baking. Too bad bleach is the best way to deal with mold. They are still present and when you hit the power something shorts - bright lights and probably a decent badda-boom. "Completely" is the key phrase. Take all electronics completely apart. I don't know off hand where to find a large one cheaply, though -- that may take some investigation. http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm [nocorrosion.com]. Especially those not it the bigger chips, because these will not have been affected that much by corruption. We use CMOS grade IPA (95% Rubbing alcohol) to clean boards all the time. This chemical can has 3 power settings and setting it to HI with the straw will push the residual water out. but anything buyable should be re-bought, if its still current. Painting or caulking over mold will not prevent mold from growing. Consider anything with IC pins, surface contacts, etc. He left it in for a while, then turned the oven off. Don't forget to clean your remote controls. Rectify any moisture issues to ensure mold growth will not return. Wife threw up the alarm that the water was starting to pool, so I went out, cleared the sewer... watched it all drain in, no pool... and went back in and started breakfast. While you can probably safely attempt recovering any small battery-powered device, I wouldn't do it for anything that plugs in. Here's a tale that should give hope: Believe it or not, I actually have ran keyboards through the dishwasher on numerous occasions. Most electronic components will not be damaged by water. DO NOTE: this stuff is flammable like nobody's business. They are good for cleaning any contacts. All dry-clean-only clothing should be either hand washed or replaced. 2. It shouldn't really damage tin solder or chip packages but who knows. Getting that back out is just as hard as you can imagine. Rubbing alcohol is your friend. Most of what you manage to save probably didn't need your help to survive. Get into the grooves carefully to remove the mold. The CD player failed completely after a second cleaning about a year after the first. I used 91% IPA from Walgreens to clean some heavily smoke-damaged electronics gear (including a Dell XPS). Well, I've been upgrading parts here and there over the years. Use electronic cleaner or alcohol(not the stuff you drink) to remove any mineral deposits. Too much soup is never enough. Dip a scrub brush in the solution and use it to scrub away the black mold. Although we have TWO pumps, I intend to add a third, that HAS a backup battery. I had a Philips Pronto that I used to control the DirecTV, lights and the switcher, but no in-wall controls, so I guess it doesn't meet your criteria for a "true" home theater. If things are being really stubborn, an ultrasonic cleaning bath in alcohol is remarkably effective (and completely safe for the electronics). (This is called "souping up" your car. that's what insurance is for. The OP mentions mold. It is not conductive, but it will absorb water from the air. Copious quantities of ethanol will help, possibly in more ways than one. How the hell does water get *under* a BGA? Better to use a pure non-oil based solvent such as denatured alcohol (pure alcohol). You can find it in most boating stores. I've not used that on electronics, but I did use it on an old car I had. BTW, one quart freezer grade ziplock bags cost little more than the sandwich bags, and are a lot more effective at waterproofing cell phones, wallets, small cameras, and similar items that the novice kayaker should worry about. You won’t find “ clean electronics ” on most cleaning checklists and even the best maid services usually don’t include devices like laptops and smartphones. Pour a very small amount of rubbing alcohol onto a clean cloth. :). to do what it is that you are having to do. I personally think mold is insidious and terrible, so I'd prioritize getting rid of mold over saving the electronics - but that doesn't mean I wouldn't try. It still works today - 20 years later. Look for damage or corrosion. After trying so many solutions, I decided to spray the entire room down with 50/50 bleach and water mix. Not really... a 7ft by 7ft room would have about 25ft of linear drywall along the base of the room, once you subtract out the door. 120 is pretty safe - most electronics can handle 140+ without a problem... the sensitive interior components get really hot while running, so the ones you're worried about damaging are usually the outside plastics. It might still work, I'm not sure what ever happened to it. Go to town, be sure to lightly soak the board under components to flush out residual water. Certain things just plain can't be saved. However if you read your fine print, you'll see that you can't buy flood insurance in the US from your insurance company unless you are in a flood plain (this is what I was told when I asked about it awhile back). After you’ve cleaned away the mold, put the book in a sealed container with baking soda or activated charcoal for a few hours. 8 When the moldy or mildewed area is gone, take the bag and dump out the baking soda. Good luck, and may I suggest you invest in a more serious pump? Acetone works too but can melt some plastics and ruin paint and rubbing alcohol can be gotten at any local grocery store. Using the washcloth or sponge, gently scrub the mold or mildew using the baking soda to help. Rubbing alcohol contains a lot of water so it's not best either. You should get this stuff, dilute it and coat the room, and everything in it. Surface mount chip packages can hold water for weeks or months underneath them, and the closely spaced pins wick water like you would not believe. If any of these things have moving parts (eg DVD player) they'll be more difficult. *eyerolls*. Before breakfast was over, I heard something strange and thought one of our gutters was overflowing. Kill 99.9% of it, and that last 0.1% will grow a hundredfold while you recover from the effort of killing 99.9% of it. I wouldn't hold out much hope for cleaning the TV without destroying it though. It will also likely cloud any transparent plastics. Dry Cleaning - Used for cleaning light residues or to pre-clean prior to wet cleaning. Some took, literally, years to get working again. How the hell does water get *into* a sponge? However, be prepared for disappointment. Now go back over things with 90% + isopropyl alcohol (it might be hard to find - do NOT use the 70% stuff). Properly clean the surface. It was at the bottom of the rack and the water was at about 3' when I killed the power. This removed ANY moisture under the caps of the 2879s (part number 2SC2879). Use a stiff pig-bristle or metal scrub brush to remove the mold by hand. Clean with water and a detergent. If they were not plugged in they can be dried out and probably used again. Our water is filtered very well. Bleach (chlorine) is a very bad idea. Fortunately in my case, the only loss was some 20-year-old carpet. Yes, I'm sure everything he has could be reconstructed, given ample time, money, energy, and soldering skill. So be aware of this. In that vein, stop at the drugstore and get a bottle of rubbing alcohol. With the presence of mold, you have a different problem. I'd give them hours in the oven or days sitting before I turned them on, though. Start with a rinse with distilled water. Next, clean up the mold by following these steps: Mix 1 cup of borax with 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. An oven at the "keep warm" setting (no more than 170 degrees) shouldn't damage the plastics, but not while it's still evaporating alcohol fumes. LCD panels wick water into the panel, and there's no easy getting that out without actually disassembling the panel (LCD / polarizers / light spreader / etc) But that's more of a cosmetic thing than functional, so if you don't mind the weird effect it has on the panel, ok for you. I've used it many many times. I think you can all figure out how the story ends. Careful that you don't strip coating off the circuits. Unfortunately, my advice for the original poster is, suck it up and replace anything that you can't get going again fairly quickly. Let me add to these other ideas a product named "Corrosion Block" (for the marine industry) and/or "ACF 50" (for aviation). Worst case, it'll catch on fire. LOADS of electronics got wet. Getting all the mold out of them -- the second priority is having them work again. Then use bleach to clean the rest of the internals, but not the electrical parts (CPU, GPU, RAM, etc.) This procedure will not work for anything with any unsealed lubricated moving parts, as it will remove *all* of of the lubrication. Most people think the A/C power, but laptop batteries, and even the BIOS battery or other onboard batteries will cause corrosion too. Simulation of the Mars Science Laboratory Sky Crane. The easiest solution, of course, is to go back in time before the flood and get everything out of the basement. 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